One Rock

Jacinda Russell

One Rock, Archival pigment print, 34” × 24”, 2023–2024

Granite from the Precambrian Era, splintered shale, and fractured gneiss dominated the Svalbardian landscape. The melting permafrost forced them above ground where they gathered in distinctive gray piles among the yellow moss. We were allowed to take one rock and there were countless interpretations of what that meant.

                         One per day?

                         One per beach?

                         One per landing?

                         One for everyone we know who might want one back home?

While on the Arctic Circle Residency, I searched for rocks that resembled icebergs to 3D scan and mold into ice. Upon my return, I wondered what others brought back with them and why. After asking a handful of my shipmates to mail me “one” they could part with for a few weeks, I photographed them in a lighting studio, monumentalized against a white background.

Hannah’s diptych embodies fragility, violent erosion … a mandoline splice. Candace found ochre to grind into pigment and gave me permission to draw with it, but a year later, it was so hard, it nearly tore the paper. The gneissic banding on Hester’s trapezoid resembles aerial views of roads paved onto volcanic ash. Paula truly took only one, presenting it to me on the last day of the voyage. This unforgettable specimen rests on my windowsill, as out of place as a glacial erratic. Like the melting ice, we picked up the stones and deposited them far from their origin. Erratics tell the story of a glacier’s path, and each one of these rocks reveals something about ours.

Untitled

Jacinda Russell

Untitled from the series Metaphorical Antipodes: Svalbard 80º N, Freezer, Ice, Butterfly Pea Flower Powder, 6” × 7” × 3”, 2022 - 2023.

I am drawn to the transitory nature of ice, how it is preserved naturally and when humans intervene. In Metaphorical Antipodes: Svalbard 80º N, I shift my attention to permafrost, witnessing how its premature loss modifies geography and impacts cultural heritage. I created 3D prints from rocks collected by my shipmates on the Arctic Circle Residency in October 2022. In their enlarged and monochromatic state, they resemble icebergs which I then form into silicone molds, and cast the plastic filament into ice. They are displayed in a glass-front mini freezer reflecting upon the impermanence of the ice-covered landscape, the inability and great environmental cost to save what we are losing, and the transient nature of the artwork itself.

The author declares they have no competing interests

Sundry Articles Found

Laurie Glover

                                                                         1

                               Where certain hardwoods’

                               right angle branches

                               tend slightly downward        by degrees

                               the bark wrinkles along

                               the underside of the turn

                               as human skin does              where a joint bends

                               the grain compressed within

                               becomes a bracket strong

                               enough to hold the weight of itself                all the way to leaf end

                                                    Looking up into such trees

                                                    shipwrights would see

                                                    the undersides of knees

                                                    A natural L, the leg curved slightly in

                                                    the perfect shape for attaching

                                                    deck beams to hull frame

                               One old oak might provide

                               one of these knee joints

                               the rest of the trunk              some number of planks

                                                    Nansen’s Fram alone required

                                                    four hundred such pieces of trees

                                                    bolted together in pairs

                                                    Fox, Hecla, Fury, Griper, Alert,

                                                    Isbjorn, Tegethoff, Jeannette.

                                                    The British Navy.

                                                    The Dutch East India fleet.

                                       Our ship is made of steel

                                       runs on diesel

                                                                        when not under sail.

                                                                         2

                                                    The Chukchi people say the world

                                                    was formed from Raven’s droppings

                                                    falling from him as he flew.

                                                    Liquids the oceans.

                                                    The land the solid stuff.

                                                                                        The Jeannette foundered

                                                                                         north of the Anzhu islands

                                                                                         off the Siberian coast

A number of articles from her

appeared later

in the neighborhood of Julianehab

now Qarqortaq

                                                                                         Ice had carried her westward

                                                                                         nearly twenty degrees

bearing indubitable marks

                                                                                         Two cutters carried

                                                                                         the survivors to the Lena delta

                                                                                         where those who died

                                                                                         were wrapped in canvas

Large quantities of driftwood

carried by the polar current

come every year to Greenland

           Norwegian fir

           two kinds of alder

           Siberian larch

                                                                                         placed in coffins improvised

                                                                                         from drift-timber

                                                                                         a stone cairn above them raised

A throwing-stick such as those

used for hurling bird-darts in Alaska

was found at Godthab

now Nuuk

ornamented by its maker

with glass beads bartered from Asia

                                                                                         A New York Herald reporter

                                                                                         in his zeal for a story

                                                                                         opened the tomb

                                                                                         to search for journals or other papers.

                                                                                         This was called desecration.

                                                    The mortuary people call

                                                    the brass box full of ashes ‘her’

                                                                         3

                                                    The damp lower portion of the wild north wind

                                                    has given birth to white ice crystals

                                                    on the sides of boulders

A staunch revenue steamer

made of Oregon fir fastened

with copper, iron, and locust-tree nails

                                                                                         Mr. Nelson, a naturalist

                                                                                         and Smithsonian zealot

The Corwin in search of lost ships

whalers Mt. Wollaston and Vigilant

US Arctic Expedition Jeannette

                                                    another of the village cemeteries

                                                    on a very rough slope of weathered granite

                                                    bodies simply laid upon the surface

                                                                                         in pursuit of a bird

                                                                                         he finds better game

                                                    whole skeletons or single bones

                                                    wedged into chance positions

                                                    mixed in with whatever effects

                                                    had been laid    beside them

                                                                                         ivory spears, arrows

                                                                                         dishes of various kinds

                                                                                         ghastlier spoils

                                                                                         This is called collection.

Three local men, seal hunting,

boarded a big ship they found

caught in the pack, masts chopped down,

the hold so full of water they couldn’t go in,

didn’t disturb four men, dead a long time,

found in the cabin

                                                    to keep them from rolling down

                                                    a row of big stones had also been laid

                                                    next to some         along the lower side

From the galley they bore away all

that could conveniently be carried:

colander, knives, ladle, stew pan,

a meat-saw, a hand-lamp, an adze

a square tin lantern painted green

a bottle of some sort of medicine

                                                                                         Four of these objects ship’s officer

                                                                                         Herring purchased by barter

                                                    The imbricate ice resembles owl feathers

                                                    indicating by their curves

                                                    the varying direction

                                                    pursued         by the interrupted wind

                                                                         4

           A walrus colony inhabits                         the far end of a flat strand

           where kilns once rendered                      whales into oil

           Artifacts from humans also dead          removed, displayed in cases

           harpoon (whale), barrel handle (oil)      knife (to cut), pulley (to hoist up)

           head of a bolt                                           (to hold together a hut)

           fragment of a door hinge                       (to keep the wind out)

           nearly unraveled                                      striped wool hats

           knitted stockings                                    one still gartered at the knee

           blue jacket of coarse-woven wool       double inner lining spilling

           twenty close-placed button holes        sewed by left-behind wives

           Photographers                                         array themselves in a line

           using various small rectangles             comprised of plastic and rare metals

           to capture the beasts                              in zeros and ones

           or in one case                                          on cellulose treated with chemicals

                                                                         5

                                                    Before the change, earth and sky were different.

                                                    Earth made of perishable stuff.

                                                    Sky serene and unchanging.

                                                    After the change, sky became like earth

                                                    Shaped by processes dynamic and violent.

One shop on the main street sells

sealskins, piled flat or shaped

into boots and moccasins.

Andrea says she can’t even enter

but I want to visit the narwhal horn

wired to the wall,

thin as shell, calcium colored.

Lushly soft, those furs

grey, speckled, ovoid

slitted on each side

where the seal’s flippers were.

                                                    Cosmic rays that fill

                                                    the vast volume of space,

                                                    that barrage of fragmented atoms, must

                                                    be the result of violence on a grand scale.

Also for sale: hunting knives

hafted with reindeer horn

                                                                                         Out in the fjords

                                                                                         hunters’ huts preserved

                                                                                         as historical sites

                                                                                         are shredded by polar bears

                                                                                         lacking ice on which to hunt seals.

Along the adjacent street

paper snowflakes are taped up

inside windows of red-and-white houses

like Santa’s, from whose eaves, above

children’s bicycles, shot birds hang.

                                                    The morphological thinker focuses

                                                    on one phenomenon at a time,

                                                    makes a list of all possible

                                                    explanations and all devices

                                                    by which to gather information.

                                                    Only after the list is complete

                                                    is a single explanation chosen.

                                                    The problem is the completion of the list

                                                    and with which phenomena to start.

                                                                         6

                                                    Arctic Pro Muck Boots

                                                    six pairs of wool socks

                                                    thermals, double-fleece pullover

                                                    hooded wool sweater, neck gaiter

                                                    Also four white cotton hankies

                                                    one with lower case ‘carol’ in white thread

                                                    Red ThermoBall jacket

                                                    front pocket for pencil and notebook

                                                    gloves with half-mittens that flip

                                                    exposing fingers to write with

                                                    Notebook folded backwards

                                                    hankie damp, then gone.

Thinking I must have dropped it

I retrace my steps

look for familiar objects

that will tell me where I’ve been

                                                                                         A photographer shouts,

                                                                                         “You’re in my frame!”

pair of bird wings intact

small puddle frozen in granite palm

                                                                                         The first Zodiac arrives

                                                                                         to take us back to the ship

Shards of white quartz

raise false hopes

                                                                                         Someone drops a boulder

                                                                                         onto the stream ice

                                                                                         to hear the boom perhaps

                                                                                         or to watch the extent of the break

She was ready to leave. I don’t want

to say goodbye to the small scrap of what’s left

                                                                         7

                                                    The point of origin is an area

                                                    of sea-to-air transfer

To avoid burning up

the earth must constantly lose

energy to space

                                                    near-surface currents (warm)

                                                                                                        move north

                                                                                                        cool

                                                    cooler waters (dense)

                                                                                                        sink

prevailing westerly winds

carry water vapor away

                                                    Something is always being         lost

                                                    Concentrate

                                                    Increases in density

                                                                                                        cold

                                                                                                        salt

                                                    sinking into the abyss

                                                                                                        slide south

                                                                                                        loop

                                                                                                        Rise

                                                                         8

At Havhestbreen at dawn

the sun showed itself under

a briefly lifted lid of banded cloud

                                                                                       those looking shoreward saw

                                                                                       the glacier awash with red

For the rest of the day

above dark mountains seamed

white along erosion lines

the waning half-moon floats

sideways across the sky, never sets

                                                                                       calving big as building collapse

When the tide turns

the slurry of ice at the glacier’s base

begins to move toward us,

murmurs, mutters, encloses

                                                                                       pieces come from behind, push past,

                                                                                       slide over, gyre

                                                    Parts of the whole will always detach

                                                    belying the illusion that the body is one.

                                                    We are so much less intact

                                                    than we would have the world believe,

                                                    riven, crevassed.

                                                                         9

                                                    In all the summaries

                                                    of polar expeditions

                                                    there is a want of clearness

Entire crews of two vessels

found frozen stark by Russians

Dogs in the same

bizarre and lifelike positions

as the men

                                                                                         by terrible whirlwinds constrained

                                                                                         from gaining entrance

                                                                                         by thicknesses of mists

                                                                                         unable to keep each other in sight

                                                                                         the land lay not

                                                                                         as the Globe made mention

                                                                                         the shallop could not come to land

                                                                                         the water was so shoale

Mounted on the flats

by the shore were crosses

and other signs

primitively made

of stones

                                                                                         no similitude of habitation

                                                    In a closed system

                                                    burning sea-coal

                                                    would be lethal

                                                                         10

                                                    The Tlingit say that Raven

                                                    entered the body of Woman

                                                    and was birthed by her into the tent

                                                    of the old man who hoarded the Sun

When we are farthest north

we’re in what geologists call

the Pre-Devonian basement

                                                                                         grasses, ferns and horsetail

                                                                                         created stable ground

Isfjord, where we departed

is much younger, the attic

                                                                                            the giant trees had fallen

                                                    humans hadn’t yet come into being

                                                                                            pantodonts could walk

                                                                                            from Greenland

                                                                                            or even Baffin Island

                                                    by the time humans were

                                                    the ice had come

We live on the roof

break into the house

                                                    They needed light

                                                                                         oil from the bodies of their kin

                                                    Still burn

                                                                                         compressed plant remains

We make the least of us

descend into excavated caverns

                                                    They see

                                                                                         imprints of leaves in ceilings

                                                                                         of room-and-pillar mines

                                                    now decommissioned

                                                    The settlement razed

                                                                                         in the tunnels unfilled

                                                                                         evidence of earlier lives lie

                                                                                         footprints of large land mammals

                                                                                         walking together

                                                    shops, cinema, bowling alley,

                                                    as if they’d all never been

                                                    During their time off

                                                    the mitigators built

                                                    driftwood sculptures

                                                    also burned

                                                    released

                                                    not re-bound

                                                                         11

           We do not ask whether

                                                                            the rock is to be thought of

                                                                            as a real object

           One could say we saw only

           the surface of things

                                                                            a great sage in the wilderness

                                                                            hears the sad song of a woman

                                                                            who lives inside

           The inflatable nosing

                                                                            the story says her husband

                                                                            made her up

                                                                            he never touched her

           afloat then aground

                                                                            she showed the sage

                                                                            how to follow her in

           toeing out calf deep

           until contact

                                                                            to move past the rough surface

           broken stone underfoot

           ice boulders separate and stranded

                                                                            deep spaces

                                                                            worlds

           unlike themselves

           one minute to the next

                                                                            fold

           as the sun intermittent

           exposes interior facets

                                                                            worlds

                                                            felt

Svalbard, Norway, October 2022

and

Sonoma, California, USA

February 2023

The author declares they have no competing interests

                                          Fragments appear from the following sources

Arms, Myron. Riddle of the Ice. Doubleday: New York, 1998.

Dyson, Freeman. “The Power of Morphological Thinking.” The New York Review of Books, May 10, 2018.

Haven, Samuel I. editor, Voyage to Spitzbergen in the Year 1613. Introduction and Journal of Sir Hugh Willoughby. Wilson & Sons: Boston, 1860.

Muir, John. The Cruise of the Corwin. Sierra Club Books: San Francisco, 1993.

Nansen, Fridtjof. Farthest North. G Newness: London, 1898.

Piepjohn, Karsten et al, The Geology of Longyearbyen. Longyearbyen feltbiologiske forening (LoFF): Longyearbyen, 2022.

Reid, Bill and Robert Bringhurst, The Raven Steals the Light. University of Washington Press: Seattle, 1984.

Rytkheu, Yuri. The Chukchi Bible. Translated by Ilona Yazhbin Chavasse. Archipelago Books: New York, 2000.

Shulman, David. “Buddhist Baedeckers,” in The New York Review of Books, March 22, 2020.

Let’s Make a Deal

Joan Albaugh

Let’s Make a Deal, Oil on canvas, 40” × 40”, 2023

Where Are You Going, Where Have You Been?

Joan Albaugh

Where Are You Going, Where Have You Been? Oil on canvas, 30” × 30”, 2023.

The author declares they have no competing interests.

Whale Bone

Harley Cowan

Whale Bone, Silver gelatin print, 2022.

©2022, Harley Cowan. All Rights Reserved.

The author declares they have no competing interests.